Autosport Labs

The wires can enter one side of the splice or both sides, doesn't matter since they all get crimped into a solid mass. Soldering the ends of the splice is just a way of sealing the connection from the environment. Also it's sometimes difficult to hold together several thick wires while trying to sol...

How do you connect four wires to one wire ? My supply wire is 14 AWG which connects to a 14 AWG wire to the coil packs and two 16 AWG wires that go to the EDIS module and the MegaJolt. I simply connected them all together with a parallel crimp splice (not a butt splice), soldered the ends and cover...

Why so many fuses? I just used a single 20 amp circuit breaker in the supply wire from the battery for the whole system.

Does the trigger wheel/sensor gap exceed .060" (1.5 mm) at any point? .040" (1 mm) is where it should be but I know of others that have run up to .060". The surface area of the teeth will affect that some, too.

Great! You're gonna love it.

The easy way, set the engine to 90* BTDC on the #1 cylinder compression stroke and then align the sensor to the missing tooth.

What is the air gap between the crank sensor and trigger wheel?

My mistake, I thought you were still bench testing with the mini bike sprocket.

Probably because you're not using a proper 36-1 trigger wheel the EDIS module is confused. It's internal counters/registers won't work as designed.

Where is the wire from the ignition switch that powered your original ignition? That's what I use to energize a relay and supply battery power to the EDIS/Megajolt.

To find out what your car wants for initial timing, first get the engine up to operating temperature. Then increase the timing 2*. Shut off the engine for a minute or so to allow it to heat soak, then try to restart. If it starts easily increase the timing 2* more, shut off and allow to heat soak. K...

I would think you just need to wire a second coil pack in parallel with the first, if the EDIS module can sink the current of two coils.

You'll be fine without holes. Mine even has carpet covering half of the module.

I have the EDIS and Megajolt sitting next to each other inside on the passenger side firewall. Makes for a short PIP / SAW cable and easy to ground the units together.

I had a somewhat similar problem with mine when trying to tune. At first everything worked fine. After a couple days when I would send a revised map to to Megajolt's RAM, the active cell didn't change with rpm or vacuum but the software gauges below the map worked and matched my in-dash tach reading...