Autosport Labs

Didn't you get a disc? If not , google "Prolific usb serial driver" and you'll find it.
Once that's installed the usb adapter shows up as a port under "Ports COM and LPT".

Both the Cofig software and the USB/serial adapter must be set as the same port - look in Control Panel>System>Hardware>Device manager to check the port settings are correct.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?menuno=12487

That should be fine, and any automotive relay is suitable - at least you're not trying to run your fan direct off the output

Without carefully and accurately working out exactly what vacuum level is produced at exactly what throttle openins, it's a tough call. However, there's nothing to stop you throwing the TPS on then driving around and adjusting the TPS calibration until you're happy.

If you're concerned, stick a palte of 3mm ally behind it or, even better, recover some ally heatsink and clamp that against the back of the EDIS. They don't get particularly hot, but the ones known to have failed have generally overheated so taking measures to keep your cool will help. Mine's been s...

The shift light uses the user outputs and shift lights output in sequence, and if you hit HowTo up at the top, then the text link below the MJLJ image, look for Vehicle Installation Guide and mooch down the page, you'll see what you're looking for

I've got a V3 ECU running 3.2.1 atm, on a 998 A+ with bp6res and champion silicone HT leads, never had any issues.

Yep, microphone cable is perfect. I used this, as have many other UK users.

As long as your existing TPS uses a 5V reference, I don't think there'd be a problem, but on a Turbocharged motor you'd be better off using MAP sensing anyway as this would give you the facility to program in boost-retard.

As long as you're using the latest firmware and config software there shouldn't be a problem using a USB serial bridge, but Huge Pine chipsets did seem more shaky than Prolific. Cardbus would be better as it's a "proper" USB port.

I reckon you VR sensor bracket's vibrating mate, because it's at a particular engine speed. If you've got a laptop, stick 'er indoors in the passenger seat and go for a drive. Open the runtime window (where you get the various statuses scrolling along and try and drive through the problem. You shoul...

Ah, electrical pump. As brent has already questiond, Is the pump continuing to run when the engine fires? I strongly suspect not! Was it originally K-Jetronic? With the tachymetric relay looking for a coil -ve signal to keep the pump running? If so, that'll be your problem.You need to feed the pump ...

Operationally they're idntical. Gen 1 HT lead caps clip over a collar on the coil pack, the Gen 2 ones just hold by friction between the rubber and plastic, as they would on traditional distributors.