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What have I fried ?
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NITROPIXIE wrote:
Well if you can't find one in Norway then i'll post one out to you. Got to be cheaper that way. 40 is rather expensive Very Happy


Thanks Ryan !

I'll see what they say when they answer my e-mail. Otherwise I'd be glad to accept that offer.

Regards,
/Patriq


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SORRY. Dont think you will find a cheap alternative in Norway, only the manual desoldering tool (pump).

It is ok to use a pump if you can unfix all the pins from the IC package using a wire cutter and then remove them pin by pin using the pump and a small solder iron.
I used a socket when my new IC was attached.

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Not a problem Wink


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I dug out the old pump and gave it a try again. After a bit of failing I sort of got the hang of it.
I removed some of the remaining solder.
But some of the solder doesn't seem to liquify properly no matter what. I can's suck it up with the pump, and I can't wick it. I seems to only be soft but not totally liquified as with the solder I am able to remove.

I do think I will be able to warm those holes enough to mount the new components.

I also removed the MAX232 now. And I mounted a socket I had for spare since I bought some for some old MegaSquirt projects.
I cut of all legs of the chip and removed them pin by pin. Also here most legs came loose with out problem and solder could be sucked up. But at some holes there still is residue of solder that won't melt properly.


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Lets hope you get it all sorted now. Offer still stands should you require

Ryan


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Well, yesterday new components arrived from Brent.
(finally ! Smile )

Since I have removed all components - there were some missing.
And I can't find a detailed BOM-list anywhere on the site, hence I have some questions I hope someone can help me with so that I can order the final components:
(Bare in mind that this is a V3 board)

Does the 1N4002 replace the 1N4004 mentioned in the assembly guide ?

Would a 0.095 A @ 120 Hz 85C 25 V dc be a suitable 33uf capacitator for C1 and C3 ?

D5, what should I more look for than it being 12V. I see that they come in different watts.
Same with D1, which is a 5V diod. What other things should I look for when bying a new one ?

T2 transistor - when I look up 2N2222 I get one that looks like the enclosed image. Judging from the picture does it look correct - and/or what should I be looking for in the transistor.

C12 - is a 1000pF the same as a 0.001uF ? And what else should I be looking for when choosing one ?

C13 - is a 220pF the same as a 0.22uF (then the above is a wrong assumption).

C14 - is a 16V ok ?

(I'm ordering all of this from a firm called ELFA in Scandinavia)




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This is the most detailed BOM we have.

http://www.autosportlabs.net/asl_dist/mjlj/mjlj_v3_bom.txt

For the electrolytic capacitors, try obtaining 50V minimum.

For the remaining capacitors, 16V is safe, if they are on the 5V regulated side (including the TPS section)

Handy Tip: You can use google to convert units of capacitance:
http://www.google.com/search?q=1000+picofarads+in+microfarads&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=com.ubuntu:en-US:unofficial&client=firefox-a

We use the plastic bodied 2n2222- you can see the datasheet here:
http://www.mouser.com/onsemiconductor

The metal can will work, you simply need to match up the leads for base, emitter and collector.


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Thanks Brent !

And the 1N4002 will replace the 1N4004 ?

And, what should I be looking for in the diods I asked about ?
There are quite a few to choose between.


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Hi Patriq,

IN4002 or 1N4004 would work fine.

1W zener diodes is what was used in the V3 kit.


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Thanks !

I think I got it sorted now. I discovered when I got back from the store though that I got a 0.1uF instead of a 0.001uF capacitator.
So I need to go back and get a new one. Everything else is in place on the board.

That took many many hours though (my wife mumbling from the bed "when are you going to get some sleep...?"
All leftovers in the wholes took time to gradually work the components down through.

All went well though, apart from the Oscillaitor. Since there are four corners - I had to work the corners down one at a time.
They all took some heat to warm up. The last one was particularily stubborn. Then suddenly the little ring on the board and part of the trace came loose. I eventually turned to look at the board - and that leg had bended and made a U. So it was never coming through the hole no matter how much I would have heated.

So I had to warm again and loosen the other 3 legs to get it loose and straighten that leg. Then I got all four legs in place. But - Maybe I should run an extra wire to the leg where the trace came loose. It is the one in the upper right corner.
And - in one of the other holes, the little can/ring that is in the board came up with the leg when I hade to take it out again.

To where would I need to run a wire to back up this leg ? It is the leg of the sharp corner of the unit.

Ground and +5V are easily backed up, just as the trace that goes to the processor. I's just the last one I'm not certain of how to back up with a new wire.


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I got the last components in place.
Flashed latest firmware and everything seems so far to be working nicely.

I've only powered it up, so I can't say if the TPS-circuit is working and all other functions. But nothing indicates problems so far.

But, as I mentioned about the oscilliator - I would like to back up the pin under the sharp corner, just in case. To where should I run a wire for this ?

I'm also having problems loading my previous configuration for my water temperature sensor, see post in this thread:http://www.autosportlabs.org/viewtopic.php?p=12601#12601


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