Its a case of timing - mini engine A series

EDIS and Megajolt installation related topics. Be sure to review the <a href="http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_vehicle_installation_guide">Vehicle installation guide</a>

Moderators: JeffC, rdoherty, stieg, brentp

Post Reply
NITROPIXIE
Posts: 704
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2008 1:54 pm
Location: Fareham, GB

Its a case of timing - mini engine A series

Post by NITROPIXIE »

Hi all

I've put together a megajolt installation into a mini and so far all is looking good. I bought the kit, soldered it myself, i've had a bit of experience in this area so that helped. Thought the kit was set out really well and so easy to use so big z's (well done) there. Maybe a very slight critiscism would be the SMT parts maybe a bit harder for the more novice of us to solder, not much of a critiscism really but that is all i could thnk of.

So my problem at the moment is that i have put all the EDIS components on the engine and managed to get the engine running without megajolt. When i used the timing strobe to check timing it was at 12 deg advance. Is this acceptable??
I think i read somewhere it should be 10 deg (Ford) and i think the mini is supposed to be 6 deg. If so does this mean i can just set the trigger off set to -2 on the megajolt so that i get 10 deg???
I had someone fabricate a trigger wheel for me and asked them to include some adjustment of 10 degs but its at the limit at the moment, i could take some more off to get it spot on or is it not essential.

Ryan

brentp
Site Admin
Posts: 5986
Joined: Wed Jan 24, 2007 6:36 am

Post by brentp »

Hi Ryan,

Welcome! Glad you have things going well so far. For the EDIS installation, the static timing is always 10 degrees. So- it seems you have your sensor fairly close. You can adjust the trigger offset in software (See the operation guide), or you can maybe shift your sensor slightly since it's only 2 degrees.
Brent Picasso
CEO and Founder, Autosport Labs
Facebook | Twitter

NITROPIXIE
Posts: 704
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2008 1:54 pm
Location: Fareham, GB

Post by NITROPIXIE »

Thats a great help, thanx brent. For the time being i'll just use the megajolt to take out the 2 degrees of error out and think about doing it with thr trigger wheel another day. :lol:

spetom
Posts: 30
Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2008 3:35 pm

Post by spetom »

Nitropixie, I've got a strobe and have just finished connecting up the EDIS and coilpack to my A-series. Not having adjusted timing before, I'm a bit in the dark as to what I'm looking for.
Connecting the light to plug 1 (that is, closest to the radiator) and shining it at the timing marks, which one shows 10 degrees!? None of them have any markings at all, as far as I can see.

NITROPIXIE
Posts: 704
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2008 1:54 pm
Location: Fareham, GB

Post by NITROPIXIE »

Hi Spetom
When doing the timing it doesn't matter if you connect to 1 or 4. I always used the flywheel end as number 1, i could be wrong but then like i said it doesn't matter 1 or 4.

One question, are your timing marks on your pully with four lil pointers on the timing cover (i think A+) or do you have a lil flap on your clutch cover plate and the flywheel has timing markings on it(Pre-A+). And i trust you have got your trigger wheel and VR sensor some where near the correct place for timing.

Anyhow disconnect your megajolt (turn it off) and leave the EDIS to run the engine on its own (limp home mode). Start your engine and connect your timing light. Pointing the gun at the timing markings. If you have a plus i think the markings a 4 degs apart but can't remember where they start from. If its Pre-A+ then the timings on the flywheel are usually 5 deg apart starting from 0 to 15 deg. If you look in a haynes manual it will tell you what the degrees each of the timing marks are for sure. I willl have a look later on if you need the information.

I got mine to within 2 degrees of the 10 degrees (12 degrees) recommended and it seems mine runs ok like this. Then when i connected the Megajolt i just put in a -2 offset in the programming. Megajolt can adjust to + or - 5 of timing electronically so as long as you get it in this ball park you should be ok.

Hope some of this helps

spetom
Posts: 30
Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2008 3:35 pm

Post by spetom »

It's A+, so the timing marks are nice and easy to spot. Thanks for the help - seems it was running around 8 / 9 degrees without the MJ connected, so I've connected it and added +1, and that looks like it's done the trick.

One general question you might be able to answer: using the timing gun with cylinders 1 and 2, the flash is fast and quite regular - but connecting it to 3 and 4, it's noticeably slower and occasionally seems to miss a flash or two. Is there something wrong with the coilpack / EDIS, or is that normal? (I guess I should reconnect the old coil and see if that's doing the same thing)

NITROPIXIE
Posts: 704
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2008 1:54 pm
Location: Fareham, GB

Post by NITROPIXIE »

That sounds like a nice job, well done.

As for the strobe flashing faster on cylinders 1 and 2, than 3 or 4. I wouldn't say thats normal as coils 1 and 4 always spark together (wasted spark) and coils 2 and 3 always spark together, so my conclusion is that it they shouldn't as a matter of its design.
Is the engine missing at all?? If not it could be that the sensor on the timing light isn't picking up all the pulses sent. If it is missing then i would say the coil pack is on its way out. As the EDIS controls coils 1 and 4 together and not seperately (the same for 2 and 3).

What engine spec you got by the way?? just being nosey

spetom
Posts: 30
Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2008 3:35 pm

Post by spetom »

It's a 1293 with a stage 3 head - a bit more 'oomph' than the standard 1275 on my GT.

Looks like it is the coilpack - I swapped some connections and leads round and the same coils had exactly the same problem.

NITROPIXIE
Posts: 704
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2008 1:54 pm
Location: Fareham, GB

Post by NITROPIXIE »

Got you, sounds like problem is solved.

Does anyone know what would be the best cranking advance or how to go about setting it. At the moment i have set it to just below what it is at idle as i thought this would be best, but to be honest i'm not 100% this is right at the moment.

NITROPIXIE
Posts: 704
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2008 1:54 pm
Location: Fareham, GB

Post by NITROPIXIE »

brentp, have you any ideas please on cranking advance please
1310 A-series Mini, lightened and built myself. V4 board and loving it

Rasputin22 - The Mini Forum
Rasputin22 - MK1 Golf Forum

Megajolt repair for the UK available

brentp
Site Admin
Posts: 5986
Joined: Wed Jan 24, 2007 6:36 am

Post by brentp »

Ryan,

Here's where the cranking advance and trigger offset parameters are documented:
http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_Op ... Parameters

For cranking advance, you may want to make small adjustments + or -, starting from the default 12 degrees.
Brent Picasso
CEO and Founder, Autosport Labs
Facebook | Twitter

NITROPIXIE
Posts: 704
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2008 1:54 pm
Location: Fareham, GB

Post by NITROPIXIE »

Thanx Brentp. I'll keep having a play and see what i can come up with best.
1310 A-series Mini, lightened and built myself. V4 board and loving it

Rasputin22 - The Mini Forum
Rasputin22 - MK1 Golf Forum

Megajolt repair for the UK available

Post Reply